Sunday, March 31, 2013

Walking in Yangon

We marched out from our hotel at around 11.30, excited to venture into this city that we had just arrived. We drafted out our walking plan after consulting the front desk receptionist, who was eager to sharpen her English with us; due to our hotel's location near Botataung Paya (pagoda), we decided to commence our walk heading there first before turning towards the town center.

Yangon was sunny that day, and despite painting myself with adequate sun block I could still feel the pricking heat. Ayerwaddy's miserly river breeze somehow did help a bit with our long walks though. We were thrown with "mingalabars" and "hello there, where you from" by the local pedestrians, making us feel like we were now local celebrities; and every mingalabar that you replied never fails to earn you a smile from the locals! Yangon's streets were dusty and fumes of poorly maintained old vehicles filled the air, but that did not hinder us from venturing out to the streets. After walking past 3 blocks, we finally reached Botataung Paya. 



Legends had it that this pagoda was somehow sacred as it enshrines one of Buddha's hair (somehow towards the end of the trip we realized that every pagoda in Burma claims to have Buddha's hair enshrined in it!). Having paid USD3 for the entrance fee, we took off our footwear, and trudged into our first pagoda in Myanmar. Botataung Paya is somehow unique from the others that we would have visited later, as it is hollow inside; there is a shrine of the Buddha's hair in the middle of it, and a maze around it. Aside from the shrine, there was not anything else intriguing with this pagoda, hence after encircling it a couple of times, we decided to go out to the courtyard, snapped a few shots, and proceed with our next destination. We did not linger long there too as our soles could not withstand the baking heat of the tiles in the courtyard!



Exiting the pagoda complex we turned into the Strand Road, named after the famous Strand Hotel, which is one of the most luxurious hotel in Yangon. (Eventually we realized that every city in Myanmar has a Strand Road!) We walked past several buildings, some hideously dilapidated, some grotesquely renovated, and some just left to rot on its own, and finally reached the Sule Paya. 


Sule Paya, on its own, is somehow unique as it is located in the roundabout in the middle of the city center. Hence, you can try imagine a pagoda, in a roundabout, surrounded by loads and loads of cars and buses and trucks. The streets leading towards the Sule Pagoda are hustling with stalls, shops and also fortune tellers, and infested with feral pigeons! I was practically starving when we reached the Sule Paya, and since it was not worth its USD2 entrance fee, we decided to just circle around it from the outside and skip it.


Around the Sule Paya are the other colonial buildings - the high court, catholic churches, the city hall, etc., but they weren't really preserved well, so we skipped it as well. Probably we were just starving to be honest. We decided to have lunch in a tea house listed in LP just a stone's throw from the Sule Paya, and a cup of lassi a few walks away, and then venture into Yangon's Chinatown.


Just like any other Chinatown in any other city, it is always the busiest and happening place one can explore. Yangon's chinatown was packed with street vendors selling fruits, flowers, snacks, clothings, lingeries, shoes, reading materials, religious materials, etc.. Goldsmiths and pawn shops were everywhere, and of course, we were taken aback with the presence of a mosque and a synagogue here too! Too bad the caretaker for the synagogue was not around, otherwise I would have my chance to visit my first synagogue!


We stopped in a local Chinese taoist temple - Kheong Hock Kong, for a short rest, and we were welcomed by a caretaker who speaks Hokkien and Mandarin. It was somehow nice meeting someone else who can speak the same language as we do and seeing the temple was nicely preserved by the local Chinese community.


Our next destination was the Bogyoke Aung San market, which was somehow too touristy for us. It was full of vendors selling lacquerware, woodcrafts, gemstones, pottery, counterfeit antiques and such. I was somehow disappointed; there weren't many vendors selling cute little souvenirs or trinkets that I am fond of collecting from countries that I've visited. We only managed to buy a few fridge magnets after searching for it high and low, and the choices were meager.

Frustrated, we walked northwards, heading for the ultimate destination in Yangon, Shwedagon Paya to catch our first sunset in Myanmar!


Saturday, March 30, 2013

Yangon

I arrived in LCCT the night before around 11 pm after rendezvous with my backpacking mate; we had decided to stay a night in the airport since our flight was early the next day and it was more convenient to do so. We lingered in McDs, before bunking on the benches outside the domestic arrival hall with the others. LCCT is always full of people, whither day or night, rain or shine.

We checked in uneventfully, got through the immigration and finally boarded up our 20 minutes delayed flight. And here we were, on our way to Myanmar, the land of thousand pagodas. 

Having awakened by the captain's announcement of our imminent arrival to Yangon International Airport around 8.15am local time, we braced ourselves for the landing, which was one of the smoothest one I've had to be exact. Yangon airport seemed rather modern and grand to me, to my disbelief, and swiftly we were ushered out to the arrival hall, through the immigration and customs officers, in a breeze. Myanmar's hunger for tourism evidently can be seen with signs and banners stating "Warmly Welcome and Take Care of Tourist". I was somehow taken aback by their initiative. Probably, with all the economy sanctioned against them, it's one of their best way to generate income. 



We managed to exchange our USDs to MMKs (Myanmar Kyats) at a good rate in one of the local bank kiosks in the airport, with USD300 to MMK 261000. I had to stuff these huge stacks of Kyats into my rug sack, terrified that it'll get pick-pocketed or we would get mugged outside. Well, I realized I was wrong when I found out nobody really robs tourists here in Myanmar!

I had already made a reservation for a room in the Ocean Pearl Inn in Yangon for USD30 per night, en-suite bathroom with air-cond and wifi. Well, the main reason was that they had complimentary pick-ups from the airport, which saved us USD5 each. So, the hotel staff met us up at the arrival hall and shoved us into the hotel van and off we went to our hotel, with a Canadian, and 2 other Malaysian aunties.

On our journey to the airport it was an eye-opening, seeing locals walking on the streets with they daily livings, reminding me of how the rural scene in Malaysia is. Folks wearing their longyi, occupied with their daily routines while spitting out red splutters which seemed like remnants from betel nut chewing from their mouths. Street pedlars trespassing the busy roads, sieving through the cars marketing their goods, trailed by the paupers in shabby clothes knocking on your window panes for alms. We passed through shrines and stupas of various shapes and sizes, until we got lost counting them, and finally the van entered the city centre, noisy and dusty and hot. 

We finally arrived in our hotel around 10am, after an arduous journey of 26km from the airport to the CBD. Having checked in and refreshed ourselves, it's time for a new journey to Yangon!

Friday, March 29, 2013

Why Burma?




"Myanmar? Why Myanmar?" A colleague of mine chuckled. "What is there to see?"

Such is the response I get whenever I tell a friend or a colleague of mine, that I'm going to Myanmar. 

I had planned to visit Sri Lanka initially, but since Air Asia has cancelled its flights to Colombo, I had to make use of my holidays which I had planned since last year. With persistent coaxing from my backpacking mate, I just could not say no. Why so?

"This is Burma and it is unlike any land you know about." Rudyard Kipling was absolutely right! 

Myanmar has always been underrated, and almost mislabelled, and I can't blame others for doing so. Having isolated itself from the other parts of the world for far too long, its ruler - the military junta - has not earned itself an honorable reputation, due to the constant reports of military crackdowns on democracy and frequent racial clashes within the country. 

The recent government change, despite how meager it was, has shone a new beacon of light. With Aung San Suu Kyi's release and how democracy has began to sprout gracefully, I managed to put down the conscientious bit of my soul, and visit this amazing country. Nevertheless, as I was encumbered with my PACES preparations, I hardly had anytime to properly research this trip and had to depend on a few remarkable resources online, which helped me wondrously, saving lots of my time and effort. 

Many thanks to www.diydetour.com for its detailed travelling guide and a few blog writers for their amazing and inspiring stories. My trip would have been enjoyably disastrous without you!